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 Texas : Features : Columns : All Things Historical :

HEMPHILL, TEXAS

Sabine County Seat, East Texas
State Hwy 87 and 184
64 miles E of Lufkin
28 miles SE of San Augustine
64 miles SE of Nacogdoches
14 miles to Louisiana

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HEMPHILL by Archie P. McDonald, PhD

Few find the community of Hemphill, county seat of Sabine County, by accident unless they are lost. One generally has a purpose for visiting this old town. A good one might be finding a place to fish or to retire since the completion of Toledo Bend Reservoir provided the area with a fine 'fishing hole' not far away.

Milam served as the seat of local government in Sabine County until 1858, when voters decided to move the courthouse to a more central location. E.P. Beddoe drew the assignment of finding the right spot and platting a town there. They named it Hemphill in honor of John Hemphill, former chief justice of the Supreme Court of the Republic of Texas and of the State of Texas.

Hemphill assumed its role as a government center in 1859, and Michael Watson became postmaster there the same year. Despite its promising beginning as a central location of the Sabine County, the county itself lay in the grip of dense forest.

With the Sabine River on one side and trees all around, Hemphill was not benefited by the Houston, East and West Texas Railway, the first constructed in East Texas in 1882-1883.
Texas grain elevator feed store





A feed store in Hemphill
TE photo

In 1884, Hemphill had a population of only 350 souls, few retail businesses, a cotton gin, and a lumber mill. Population declined to less than 300 in 1900, rose to 400 by World War I, and reached perhaps 1,500 or so by the 1920s before declining again during the Depression. In 1990 the official count stood at 1,182 residents. A significant portion of the present population resulted from the economic stimulation of Toledo Bend Reservoir.

Old jail in Hemphill






Historic jail in Hemphill, now a museum
Photo courtesy George Lester, April 2004
I have some fond memories of Hemphill. On many weekends back in the 1960s, we drove from Nacogdoches to the southern part of Sabine County to help my father-in-law, Bert Barrett, clear brush from a lakeside subdivision he and his partners were developing. Our route followed Highway 21 to Milam, then south, through Hemphill, to the subdivision.

We rarely stopped, unless it was at the old Peddy's Restaurant, for a cup of coffee or a meal. On one trip my wife wanted to stop in town for a purchase, and my then four-year-old son and I strolled around the square while she shopped. We received a guided tour of the old jail, just then unoccupied, that shares the square with the seat of justice in Sabine County. I had never seen the inside of a jail before, and determined that this would be my last visit. So far, that has turned out to be the case.


© Archie P. McDonald, PhD
All Things HIstorical July, 2002 Column


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Sabine County courthouse, Hemphill Texas today
The 1906 Sabine County courthouse in Hemphill
Photo courtesy Terry Jeanson, December 2007

More Hemphill Stories

  • A gunfight in Hemphill by Bob Bowman
    With deep roots in East Texas, John Wesley Hardin was our most famous outlaw and gunfighter, but many of his raids and shootings in the pineywoods have remained unchronicled. A little-known incident in which he won a gunfight with a Sabine County deputy sheriff at Hemphill...
  • The Mystery of Lady Bountiful by Bob Bowman
    November 22 will mark the 85th anniversary of an East Texas murder that created a still-lingering mystery and put a timber baroness in a pauper’s grave.
  • Saving Sallie's Home by Bob Bowman
    Today, more than a few Hemphill townspeople are convinced Sallie's prayers 95 years ago have protected her house from the wrecker's ball and will lead to its eventual restoration.
    more
  • A Personal Hero by Bob Bowman
    My favorite East Texans are the senior citizens whose agile memories have helped me write columns such as this. Leon Herman Adickes, 88, who was high on my list, died recently at Hemphill -- a place where he helped make history by simply doing things to make his community a better place. Most of what he did were acts like making sure Hemphill had a doctor, a hospital, a nursing home and a Lions Club. more
  • The Twirler by Bob Bowman
    When Audrey Dean Leighton passed away in mid-2005, East Texas lost one of its most entertaining and colorful characters.

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